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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.